The Anchor and the Fury

Well, we had our first taste of cruising in Georgian Bay this past week with anchorages and boats and weather stories all combining to make a pretty swell and unusual first exploring attempt.

The weather has certainly been an issue with unseasonably cool temperatures and a very uncertain mix of sun and cloud and, occasionally, storms. The wind has been pretty stiff for the entire time except for evenings now and then and we regularly seemed to be running from or into 15 to 20 knots on a daily basis. We've always been able to find shelter but it gets a bit grueling having that perpetual moan in the mast and having to find relief in the lee of the boat which keeps shifting around. 

Here then is a brief rundown of our activities lately…

Rainbow at Hope Island

Sat. June 8

We travel by car to Thornbury, ON to visit with our friends Jenny and Terry and to drop off Brooke’s motorcycle. The plan is that we will travel later by boat from Penetang to Thornbury where Brooke will pick up her bike and drive it to Owen Sound, ON and there she will be taking a final road test for her license. This plan is soon to falter due to the aforementioned winds, but more on this…

We pass the shallow waters seen off-shore from the highway and spend a nice evening with the Dean-Flynns, spot a fox on a walk down to the water and see for ourselves the dramatic effect the low waters have had on the shorelines around this area.

Then we head back to Hindson.

Sun. June 9

We have decided that our first anchorage attempt will be out at Beausoleil Island. Even though we know that weekend boaters will make this problematic, it is the closest land mass and is said to sport several nice anchorages. Also, the wind has picked up from the N and our alternate choice, Methodist Point, is not well-protected from this. Plus you have all those damn Methodists all over the place with their ``hey, can we help you out, friend?” and their funny hats. They have funny hats, right?

Methodists... I stand corrected on the funny hat thing.

Sure enough, when we coast over to the island (about 7 miles) the anchorage we've chosen in Ojibway Bay is chock full of day-runners with party music (which we call ‘ooncy-ooncy’, by the way) so we anchor in the channel for a bit, getting in the way of their omni-present dinghies, and wait for the inevitable bug-out when Sunday winds down and they have to get back to the mainland for civic duties, like earning a living, which Brooke and I have pretty much  given up on.

By the end of the day there is still a fair amount of boats in the main anchorage area and the wind is starting to pick up from the north and when we notice the boats have left from a position a short distance away, we scoot over there and drop the hook. The one remaining boat there is soon gone and we think we have the position to ourselves until a couple of short-draft boats come sliding in, make slowly for shore, tie up to the small park dock there and commence to picnic down. They’re noisy but not intolerable. We swing around a bit but the holding is good and we have a nice dinner and watch a movie later.

Ojibway Bay anchorage

Mon. June 10

The sun is up for a while but gives way to rain and wind and the shore-party breaks up and heads home. The wind is shifting now to the SE so we weigh anchor and head over to the spot we had aimed for yesterday. Now it is clear but for a sailboat and a small cruiser. We drop anchor in about 15 feet of water in the shelter of a small island and, dressed warmly, enjoy the sun until it gives way to rain in the latter half of the day.

Tues. June 11

We have intended for some while to take advantage of a small anchorage close to the town of Penetang, called Discovery Harbour. It is an historical re-creationist sort of place and has a couple of small tall-ships tied to a dock and a few olde tyme buildings, manned by summer students dressed as olde tyme sailors and soldiers and such. Of course, in this benign setting, there are no hangings or virulent diseases that would actually mark the era. Just students in ill-fitting costumes. Brooke has determined that we will visit this site officially soon.

Brooke dreaming of the day when she will visit the Discovery Centre

We head back to the mainland, tie up at the town dock (which they will let you do for up to 4 hours without charge) and grab the truck (for which we have decided to pay the seasonal parking rate of $65 for convenience sake) and go for provisions. Then we motor up the way, circle the small Magazine Island in the middle of Penetang harbour and drop the hook just off-shore of the Discovery Harbour Centre.

Discovery Harbour

It turns out to be quite a nice little anchorage really and the island cuts off the NW wind to a large degree. It rains for a while but let’s off and the evening is calm. While at this anchor we spot a young beaver swimming around eating wood, or whatever they do. Also, we saw a few big fish near the island fighting with each other; splashing around in the shallows and wiggling their tails at each other. I guess there isn't a whole lot fish can do than bump into each other. Unless, of course, they’re predatory, like sharks. We have yet to spot a shark.

Fish fight... not a whole lot of damage going on there.

Wed. June 12

We get up in the morning, motor over to Hindson and buy some fuel. It costs $1.37 a litre and I think back to a year ago when we were paying $1.58 a litre at the Outer Harbour Marina in Toronto which is owned by the city and therefore feels it has a right to fleece you.

Then we head out, destination… Giant’s Tomb. I had thought that this island was named such because it probably looked like some sort of big grave from a distance, but have since read that there is actually a giant buried there. His name was Roger.

Anchorage at Raft Point, Giant's Tomb Island

The wind is picking up (again), this time from the NW so Giant’s Tomb will be okay since its lee is to the SE. When we get there it is deserted (just the way we like it) and inching in we anchor in the sand at about 11 feet. Unfortunately, the intense drop off causes the anchor to ride down the incline and we end up in an awkward position when the wind shifts slightly and starts to push our stern into uncomfortably shallow water. We bring the hook out and move into deeper water and re-set with success.

Cute baby geese? Yes, Giant's Tomb has cute baby geese.

Thur. June 13

Well, the wind is getting silly now and we can’t hold out at Giant’s Tomb anymore so we decide to make a run for it across the strait and through into a bay at Hope Island. Active-Captain, a web-site that I belong to and has a great anchorage recommendation map, holds that Sandy Bay on Hope Island is a great spot when the winds are from the N to any degree.

Another aspect of this bay that has received numerous mentions in A-C is the remarkable colour of the water. When we arrive we find that this is no exaggeration. It is, on a sunny day, a fantastic emerald colour and clear as an actor’s bank account. We discover later that we can actually look down and see our anchor in the sand at 15 feet.

The emerald-green waters of Hope Island

We are well-protected, the bay is at rest and there is nobody else about. Later a nice-looking Beneteau comes cruising in under power and drops anchor a few hundred yards away. When they have finished dropping the hook, we hear the pop of champagne bottles and cheers. We estimate that this is a new boat on its first day out. Here’s to many more, you unseen compatriots.

Cappie soothing his injured knee in the icy water

Later in the day, a huge storm front which we had run to Hope to avoid descends on the region. Environment Canada has issued a Small Craft Warning and we are definitely that. But luck and smart planning have combined and we watch, in awe, as the huge thunder heads roll past us to the east and dump their lightning, thunder and rain on all areas there, including Giant’s Tomb. We, conversely, are bathed in sunlight.

Shoal Point, Hope Island. Storm in the background.

Fri. June 14

We had contemplated swinging over to Beckwith Island (just a couple of miles away) to the west side anchorage there but when the wind swings so the WNW, we decide instead to make for Christian Island, where we will hunker down at an area of the ferry channel near the small community there. All of the islands around here are park lands mostly and belong to the Beausoleil First Nations. For a small fee you are welcome to enjoy most areas but are also welcome to take your garbage home with you and not to wreak havoc on the scenery.

We anchor off the shore near the town dock where the ferry comes in every hour or so, for most of the day and night as far as we can make out.

Sat. June 15

We have heard over the weather radio that there is a small window of calm around day-break and after that the wind will be climbing to 15 – 20 knots from the SW. This is the day that we are supposed to head over to Thornbury by boat. We have telephoned the marina there but have had no response despite several attempts and messages left. Given that it is a town marina and is supposed to be open 6 days a week, 8 – 4 pm, this seems pretty shabby. But we decide that we will just head there anyway and if there is a problem getting a slip, we’ll instead make for Meaford, some 6 or 7 miles further, where we know we can get in.

We get up at 5:30 in the morning only to find that the weather has come earlier than anticipated by Environment Canada and the wind is already starting to pick up. We motor over to the entrance to the Christian Island channel and look out onto the featureless horizon. The waves are already starting to grow and the distance we would have to traverse is about 18 miles, or in Mary Mary language, 2 ½ hours at 8 knots. Granted it would be a head wind and if we were on our own we would probably have run it, crashing the waves head on, but with the cats, it would only be traumatic. They start to foam, you know.

Strange pollen slick off Sawlog Bay

So we decide to forgo it this time and instead head back to Penetang, the wind pushing us along as if to agree with our decision. It’s disappointing, particularly because we were to meet up with Jenny and Terry for the evening, but we have learned from experience, that when conditions are iffy you have to go with your gut and force yourself to make the smart choice.

When we arrive back at Hindson marina, we book in for a week’s stay and watch later as terrific thunder storms hit the area.

Storm clouds in the sunset

Thus endeth anchor week.